Author Archives: Maike

Korsha: Of poets and painters, horse racers and judoka

Khevsureti is one of the most beautiful regions in Georgia, and one of the most difficult to access. Korsha is the last village on the road leading north into the Khevsureti mountains that is still accessible during the winter months. Many tourists just pass by this little village as they are heading towards Shatili (which admittedly is pretty amazing with its medieval fortified slate houses and towers all clustered together on a slope above a river and surrounded by mountains – more about Shatili in a later post.)

However, I can only recommend a stopover at the Arabuli family’s guesthouse in Korsha, one of the best places I’ve stayed at in Georgia! To start with, this is what you might get when asked upon arrival whether you’d like “a coffee”:

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Exploring everyday life in Georgia

As I twisted my ankle a few weeks back I’m still in Georgia, waiting for my foot to heal and spending my time learning Russian in Tbilisi. Fortunately, a friend of mine had offered that I could stay at his brother’s lovely appartment since he’s currently abroad and not using it. So instead of traveling around I have had the chance to explore Georgian everyday life, and its challenges, for a change. Continue reading

Tskneti: Dachas and displaced people

I had really looked forward to an excursion to the Algeti National Park just an hour outside of Tbilisi today. But, it wasn’t meant to be – the car’s cooler broke down halfway. Which is how we ended up in Tskneti.

There’s really not much to see in Tskneti and I doubt we’d usually have stopped there. In which case I might have never found out what more well-off Tbilisians nowadays consider a ‘country cottage’ (a ‘dacha’).

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Room with a view

While my foot is steadily getting better I still can’t do much more than hobble to the little village shop and back once a day. Three reasons why I’m nevertheless enjoying myself here:

1) The view from my room:
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2) The view from the second window of my room:
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3) Giorgi, the owner of the guesthouse who is taking great care of me, including cooking dinner for both of us and providing me with a daily dose of ‘chacha’, the traditional Georgian spirit, for better sleep and quicker healing.
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“Oh, my God” moments in Kazbegi

On my way to the mountainous Kazbegi region in the North of Georgia I had a number of “Oh, my God” moments today. Because of the condition of the road, I admit that most of the time they weren’t of a deeply spiritual nature but rather went something along the fearful lines of “Oh, my God, I hope the driver knows what he’s doing….”

However, upon arriving my doubts about coming here were very quickly forgotten given the “Oh, my God, how beautiful” moment at the sight of the Gergeti Trinity Church and Mount Kazbek…

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Looking forward to hiking up to the church and the Gergeti glacier tomorrow!